Archive for the ‘photography’ category

Organizing Photos

September 28th, 2009

If you’ve been shooting for a couple weeks, months, or years, you probably have accumulated hundreds or thousands of image files. Keeping tack of them can be a nightmare. Let me tell you, it is much easier to spend the time and devise a good image management strategy. The sooner you do this, the better. Depending on how many images you already have, it may take a bit of time to get organized, but let me tell you. It’s totally worth it. I had tried a bunch before landing on one that works for me. It’s pretty simple, but is really effective. Also, it works well with my two favorite image editor/organizing programs (Adobe Lightroom and Google’s Picasa).

My organization structure goes like this:

  • Home location for pictures. On my mac, that is in the user file\pictures. On a PC, it is My Documents\My pictures.
    • Inside that location I create a folder for every year: 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, etc.
      • Inside the 2009 folder, I then make a sub-folder with the date for every time I take images, and append a quick description. For example, 2009-09-28 – Jordan’s Birthday. This helps me remember the date and reason for each event.

In my example above, the path would be: Users/Jordan/Pictures/2009/2009-09-28 – Jordan’s Birthday

This keeps your photos organized chronologically as well as having a description that is easy to search.

One question I get it, what about using iPhoto on my Mac. I’ve tried it, and personally, I HATE IT. There is one key flaw that I see with iPhoto that will keep me from using it: there isn’t a correlation with how your images are stored on the hard drive that matches your organization in iPhoto. They use this complicated album concept and create low-resolution thumbnails all over the place. I’ve helped dozens of friends try to undo the crap that iPhoto does with their images. And a lot of times, the end up losing their high resolution images because they accidentally saved their thumbnails. Make your life easier, don’t use it!

Look how easy this is with Lightroom.  Just plug in your camera and you get this nice little dialog:

LR Import

There is an option that lets you pick where your pictures home location is (Copy to). In this example: Users/Jordan/Pictures  (you only have to set this once)

Then there is an “organize” option.  There are a bunch of options that Lightroom gives you, but the second option matches the strategy above. (you also only have to set this once)

LR Import Options

Then, Lightroom shows you all the folders it’s going to create and how many images are in each day.

Click OK, and the images are imported onto your computer and put into the right sub-folders. The only remaining step is to add an event description to each folder. You can do this through right click and re-name. You are left with a directory that looks like this in Lightroom, with an identical match on your hard drive.

Finder and LR locationOne final note, and this is personal preference. If I’ve taken images on a trip or something that spanned multiple days, I usually just combine all the images into one folder by doing a drag or drop. But that is totally up to you.

Tips for New Photographers

September 28th, 2009

Came across this article from a Twitter feed. Thought it was pretty interesting so I wanted to share it with my readers as well.

11 Tips for Beginner Photographers

I really like the suggestion to keep a journal of things you want to come back and shoot. I always see things that I’d like to take a picture of, but never remember to come back. I’m going to start taking pictures on my iPhone, which is always with me, and then page through them as a reminder to come back with my dSLR. Anyone else find anything useful?

Depth of Field

September 21st, 2009

Depth of field or DOF, is a term used to specify the area of a scene that is in focus. A “shallow depth of field” has the subject sharp in focus, but the rest of the foreground and background is out of focus. The background and foreground appear soft. This is a great technique for getting your subject to stand out from the background. Take a look at this picture. You can see how I’ve made the background flowers out of focus so that subject flower stands out more.

DOF Flowers


Here is an example of where I didn’t do a great job separating the subject from background. I wanted just the first tulip to be the center of focus, but all the background is in focus too, and it’s distracting:

DSC_0238


There are three things the affect the size of your Depth of Field: Focal length, aperture, and distance from the subject. I will go into the technique more later, but to summarize:

  • Focal Length: The more zoom, the shallower the DOF
  • Aperture: The wider the aperture (small F-Number) , the shallower the DOF
  • Distance from subject: the closer to the subject, shallower the DOF.

The Basics – Aperture

September 14th, 2009

Aperture is one of those photography terms that intimated me at first. It sounds quite technical, and even the units, F-Numbers, don’t make a lot of sense. Changing your aperture is a very powerful tool to a photographer, and there are many reasons why you’d chose a certain value, however, it again all comes down to light. In combination with shutter speed, aperture controls the amount of light hitting your image sensor. The more light, the brighter your image, the less light, the darker your image.

Technically, aperture refers to the size of the opening in the lens. Take a look at the example below. The top image is a wide or large aperture (lots of light), while the bottom image is a smaller aperture (just a small amount of light).

The other hard to grasp part of aperture is the numbering system. Aperture uses F-numbers or F-stops. It seems counter intuitive to me, however, the smaller the number, the larger the opening. So in the pictures above, the top lens might have an aperture of f/2 while the lower image has f/16. A trick I use to help me remember how F-numbers work was given to me by my photography professor… “think about inflating a cartoon bike tire. If you inflate it with a lot of pressure, the hole in the middle will get smaller” More pressure = tighter aperture = higher F-Number. Not sure if that helps you, but it works for me.

These images are all shot keeping the shutter speed constant and just adjusting aperture (which will cause them to be under/over exposed).

Overexposed with wide aperture: 1/10 sec, f/5.6

Over exp Wide Ap

Proper Exposure with medium aperture: 1/10 sec, f/11

Expose Med Ap

Underexposed with small aperture (big f-number): 1/10 sec, f/22

Under expose small Ap

Aperture also has another effect on your images beyond how bright or dark your image is. After all, why would you need 2 ways to control this, shutter speed and aperture. What aperture does is also change the amount of your image that is in focus. This is referred to as the depth of field. I’ll cover depth of field in a later post, however, to illustrate the effects, take a look at the three images I’ve shot below.

Exposed properly, but with different aperture/shutter speed combinations, so you can see the depth of field effects.

½ sec, f /22 (all 3 quarters are in focus) – Slow shutter speed because aperture is small. This lets in enough light.

Big DOF

1/10 sec, f/11 (Center quarter is in focus, but back is out of focus, and most of front is out of focus) – Faster shutter speed because less light is needed when aperture is larger.

Med DOF

1/40 sec. f/5.6 (center quarter is the only one that is in focus) – Even faster shutter speed because aperture is all the way open.

Small DOF

This was another resource that I found helpful if you want to learn more:

http://www.photoaficionado.com/situationroom/aperture.html

Photography: It’s all about Light

August 21st, 2009

When thinking about photography, it all really comes down to light. That’s what goes onto the cameras sensor, and that is what makes an image. Exposing the perfect picture comes down to your ability to control the light that comes into the camera. There are three settings on your camera that really control the light coming in.

  1. 1. Aperture: The size of the “hole” light comes through to your sensor
  2. 2. Shutter Speed: The amount of time light is being captured by the sensor
  3. 3. ISO: The sensitivity of your sensor.

I’ll cover each of these in separate blog posts. But being able to control these three settings are what will enable you to capture that perfect shot. These all three come together to become the “exposure” of the picture. You’ve probably heard the term “overexposed” or “underexposed” before. By changing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, you can control the amount of light in the picture and get the perfect exposure.

Below are three examples of exposure:

Underexposure

Underexposed

Overexposure

Overexposed
Correct Exposure
Exposed

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom: A great way to organize images.

August 20th, 2009

Full Disclosure: I work for Adobe, so I may be biased… however, I don’t recommend anything I don’t use myself.

I’ve been using Photoshop Lightroom for over a year now, and I still love it. Prior to finding Lightroom, I’d been taking digital pictures for about 8 years, and had never come up with a system that I liked for storing and cataloging images. I’d tried using Windows Explorer file system, iPhoto, and up until last year, I was pretty happy with Picasa, but Lightroom has blown them all away.

There are several functions in Lightroom beyond just organizing (all of which I love), but for just remembering what/where/when you took a picture, the Library module in Lightroom is awesome. Right from importing your photos from you camera, it keeps everything in one place. For safety, it automatically makes copies of your pictures for auto-backup. (having lost a lot of data, I can’t stress this enough).

I’m gonna spend a lot of time talking about Lightroom in this blog as I learn more. It is super powerful and has tons of features that’ll probably take me months to learn, however if you use it as nothing more than just an organizer, you’ll still be happy.

A couple things to point out: Lightroom 2 is available for a free 30-day trial from Adobe.

Also, to get started using the software, I highly recommend the Lynda.com training It’s done by Chris Orwig and really helped get me going with the software.

Using Autofocus

August 19th, 2009

The ability for a camera to automatically focus is awesome. The fact that your camera can look at an object, determine if it is sharp enough, and change the focus blows me away every time. When I first got my DSLR cameras, one thing I’ve noticed is that it was unpredictable on what it would focus on. I’d look through the viewfinder, and want to focus on the person in my shot, and it would focus on some leaf in the foreground. Or it would focus on the closest person instead of the person in the middle. Turns out, my Nikon has some settings for the focus mode that I didn’t know about. The factory had it set to focus on the closest object, regardless of where it was. This wasn’t working for me, because I didn’t always want the closest object in focus.

What I’ve done to simplify my life and make my autofocus only focus on what is in the direct center of my viewfinder. Looking through my Nikon, (D40) I have an indicator that looks like:

These boxes are the focus area indicators. I’ve changed the settings in the back menu (check your manual to see what menu), so that only the center square is put in focus.

I know what you are saying, “what if I don’t want the center to be in focus, what if I want something on the right or left to be in focus. I that case you put the item you want to focus on in the center brackets, press the shutter button half way down and then re-compose you image. This blog talks about some of the other features of autofocusing that I won’t rewrite here: http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d80/af-settings.htm

I also noticed that sometimes the camera wouldn’t focus, it just kept searching, and never finds a focus distance. The autofocus in your camera uses lines of contrast to focus. So you need to look at the edge of an object to get the camera to focus. It you are trying to focus on something all the same color, the camera won’t know how to make it sharp

Apologies for Being Absent

August 10th, 2009

It’s been pretty obvious that I’ve been neglecting my blog. I’m going to make an effort to update it more regularly. Just because my entries stopped, didn’t mean my interest in photography has waned. I’ve still been shooting and learned a couple new things along the way. I’d like to ask a favor of my readers, please make comments. I’d love to hear your feedback on what I’m writing.

Buying a point and shoot compact camera

March 5th, 2009

If a camera can fit in your pocket, chances are, it is a point and shoot. These cameras are great for a night out on the town, or anytime you want to take pictures, but don’t want to lug around a heavy camera. These cameras are generally the least expensive and range in price from under a hundred to around $400. Most point and shoots purchased in the last couple years take pretty great pictures. So, you are probably asking yourself, if these cameras are the smallest and lowest price, why don’t I just stop here, why do I need anything more?

Control, control, control! As we start to get into more advanced features of the camera, it becomes important to be able to change different ‘setting’ that the camera uses to capture the image. The two biggest ones are shutter speed and aperture (don’t worry if you don’t know what those are right now, I’ll be covering them in later entries).

If you look at the controls on the point and shoot cameras,

you’ll notice that they only have an auto setting and a couple pre-sets.


They don’t allow you to individually change the shutter speed or aperture. The camera relies on its internal computer and sensors to make a decision about how these things should be set. It usually gets pretty close, but you can’t do the fine-tuning that makes your images look really fantastic. There isn’t an image sensor or camera processor that can make decisions as well as the human eye… at least not yet.

Also, interchangeable lenses! The point and shoots come with one lens that is attached to the camera. That is the only lens that you will be able to use. If you want to shoot close up pictures, wide angle, or super zoomed pictures, you are out of luck. Point and shoot cameras do have the ability to zoom, and usually say something like “3x optical zoom”. This means that you can make an image 3 times larger. However, ever other camera uses a measure of mm to denote the camera’s zoom. A typical zoom range for a point and shot with “3.8x optical zoom“ is from 28-105mm, but that is hard to gauge, because they have different starting points to do 3x. I’ll get into more detail about what those numbers mean later, but they are useful for comparison.

Also, remember that DIGITAL ZOOM IS A SCAM!!! More on this tomorrow.

Personally, I have a point and shoot that I carry around with me when I want to take some snapshots. It’s a Canon SD850IS.

I bought it two years ago and carry it around when I don’t want to deal with the bigger cameras.

Examples: Canon SD970IS, Nikon Coolpix S230, Sony Cyber-shot DSC-G3

Thanks to DPReview.com for the camera images above.

Buying a Digital Camera

March 3rd, 2009

If you are like me, then buying a digital camera is an overwhelming process. There are literally hundreds of cameras on the market and dozens of places to buy. Prices can range from under a hundred dollars to a several thousand. I’m not an expert on camera selection, but here is the thought process and learning I had when I selected my camera.

I’ve broken the digital camera market down into four “styles” of cameras:

  1. Point and shoot compact cameras
  2. Consumer model cameras with advanced settings
  3. Consumer style D-SLR cameras
  4. Pro level D-SLR’s

Each camera has a distinct purpose and situation that they are best suited for. The best advice I have is to choose the one that makes the most sense for your photographic needs, but that also fits in your budget. Buying the most expensive camera isn’t going to make you a better photographer. Knowing how to use the camera you have is what is most important. As the week goes on, I’ll create an entry for each segment of camera and walk you through the defining characteristics of each. I’ll also share what I bought, and why.

For now, a couple resources to check out are:

  • DP Review (www.dpreview.com): Checkout the buying guide and camera database
  • Consumer Reports (www.consumerreports.org): Good for reliability and feature comparison, but the site charges to see everything
  • CNet Digital Cameras (www.cnet.com): This link takes you to the digital camera section. There are a lot of good reviews here.

Just a note here, I’m exclusively talking about digital cameras. If you are interested in traditional film I don’t really have any advice for you.