Archive for September, 2009

Organizing Photos

September 28th, 2009

If you’ve been shooting for a couple weeks, months, or years, you probably have accumulated hundreds or thousands of image files. Keeping tack of them can be a nightmare. Let me tell you, it is much easier to spend the time and devise a good image management strategy. The sooner you do this, the better. Depending on how many images you already have, it may take a bit of time to get organized, but let me tell you. It’s totally worth it. I had tried a bunch before landing on one that works for me. It’s pretty simple, but is really effective. Also, it works well with my two favorite image editor/organizing programs (Adobe Lightroom and Google’s Picasa).

My organization structure goes like this:

  • Home location for pictures. On my mac, that is in the user file\pictures. On a PC, it is My Documents\My pictures.
    • Inside that location I create a folder for every year: 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, etc.
      • Inside the 2009 folder, I then make a sub-folder with the date for every time I take images, and append a quick description. For example, 2009-09-28 – Jordan’s Birthday. This helps me remember the date and reason for each event.

In my example above, the path would be: Users/Jordan/Pictures/2009/2009-09-28 – Jordan’s Birthday

This keeps your photos organized chronologically as well as having a description that is easy to search.

One question I get it, what about using iPhoto on my Mac. I’ve tried it, and personally, I HATE IT. There is one key flaw that I see with iPhoto that will keep me from using it: there isn’t a correlation with how your images are stored on the hard drive that matches your organization in iPhoto. They use this complicated album concept and create low-resolution thumbnails all over the place. I’ve helped dozens of friends try to undo the crap that iPhoto does with their images. And a lot of times, the end up losing their high resolution images because they accidentally saved their thumbnails. Make your life easier, don’t use it!

Look how easy this is with Lightroom.  Just plug in your camera and you get this nice little dialog:

LR Import

There is an option that lets you pick where your pictures home location is (Copy to). In this example: Users/Jordan/Pictures  (you only have to set this once)

Then there is an “organize” option.  There are a bunch of options that Lightroom gives you, but the second option matches the strategy above. (you also only have to set this once)

LR Import Options

Then, Lightroom shows you all the folders it’s going to create and how many images are in each day.

Click OK, and the images are imported onto your computer and put into the right sub-folders. The only remaining step is to add an event description to each folder. You can do this through right click and re-name. You are left with a directory that looks like this in Lightroom, with an identical match on your hard drive.

Finder and LR locationOne final note, and this is personal preference. If I’ve taken images on a trip or something that spanned multiple days, I usually just combine all the images into one folder by doing a drag or drop. But that is totally up to you.

Tips for New Photographers

September 28th, 2009

Came across this article from a Twitter feed. Thought it was pretty interesting so I wanted to share it with my readers as well.

11 Tips for Beginner Photographers

I really like the suggestion to keep a journal of things you want to come back and shoot. I always see things that I’d like to take a picture of, but never remember to come back. I’m going to start taking pictures on my iPhone, which is always with me, and then page through them as a reminder to come back with my dSLR. Anyone else find anything useful?

Switching from Blogger – Find my blog for now at JLDPhotography.blogspot.com

September 23rd, 2009

I’m migrating between blog engines. Things may get a little strange. If things look strange here, check out my blog at http://jldphotography.blogspot.com/

Depth of Field

September 21st, 2009

Depth of field or DOF, is a term used to specify the area of a scene that is in focus. A “shallow depth of field” has the subject sharp in focus, but the rest of the foreground and background is out of focus. The background and foreground appear soft. This is a great technique for getting your subject to stand out from the background. Take a look at this picture. You can see how I’ve made the background flowers out of focus so that subject flower stands out more.

DOF Flowers


Here is an example of where I didn’t do a great job separating the subject from background. I wanted just the first tulip to be the center of focus, but all the background is in focus too, and it’s distracting:

DSC_0238


There are three things the affect the size of your Depth of Field: Focal length, aperture, and distance from the subject. I will go into the technique more later, but to summarize:

  • Focal Length: The more zoom, the shallower the DOF
  • Aperture: The wider the aperture (small F-Number) , the shallower the DOF
  • Distance from subject: the closer to the subject, shallower the DOF.

The Basics – Aperture

September 14th, 2009

Aperture is one of those photography terms that intimated me at first. It sounds quite technical, and even the units, F-Numbers, don’t make a lot of sense. Changing your aperture is a very powerful tool to a photographer, and there are many reasons why you’d chose a certain value, however, it again all comes down to light. In combination with shutter speed, aperture controls the amount of light hitting your image sensor. The more light, the brighter your image, the less light, the darker your image.

Technically, aperture refers to the size of the opening in the lens. Take a look at the example below. The top image is a wide or large aperture (lots of light), while the bottom image is a smaller aperture (just a small amount of light).

The other hard to grasp part of aperture is the numbering system. Aperture uses F-numbers or F-stops. It seems counter intuitive to me, however, the smaller the number, the larger the opening. So in the pictures above, the top lens might have an aperture of f/2 while the lower image has f/16. A trick I use to help me remember how F-numbers work was given to me by my photography professor… “think about inflating a cartoon bike tire. If you inflate it with a lot of pressure, the hole in the middle will get smaller” More pressure = tighter aperture = higher F-Number. Not sure if that helps you, but it works for me.

These images are all shot keeping the shutter speed constant and just adjusting aperture (which will cause them to be under/over exposed).

Overexposed with wide aperture: 1/10 sec, f/5.6

Over exp Wide Ap

Proper Exposure with medium aperture: 1/10 sec, f/11

Expose Med Ap

Underexposed with small aperture (big f-number): 1/10 sec, f/22

Under expose small Ap

Aperture also has another effect on your images beyond how bright or dark your image is. After all, why would you need 2 ways to control this, shutter speed and aperture. What aperture does is also change the amount of your image that is in focus. This is referred to as the depth of field. I’ll cover depth of field in a later post, however, to illustrate the effects, take a look at the three images I’ve shot below.

Exposed properly, but with different aperture/shutter speed combinations, so you can see the depth of field effects.

½ sec, f /22 (all 3 quarters are in focus) – Slow shutter speed because aperture is small. This lets in enough light.

Big DOF

1/10 sec, f/11 (Center quarter is in focus, but back is out of focus, and most of front is out of focus) – Faster shutter speed because less light is needed when aperture is larger.

Med DOF

1/40 sec. f/5.6 (center quarter is the only one that is in focus) – Even faster shutter speed because aperture is all the way open.

Small DOF

This was another resource that I found helpful if you want to learn more:

http://www.photoaficionado.com/situationroom/aperture.html